How to build trail in a wet area (short version)

I fiercely resent that Lauren Gilbert took my knot tying. I tie so many knots, it's crazy. But so be it.

I will briefly outline how to construct a trail in a wet environment.

1) Plan out the trail.

This stage is vitally important. Trails, if they're in a forested area, should be clearly blazed or tagged using uniform paint blazes on both sides of trees periodically (close enough that standing at one blaze, one should be able to see another) or pieces of colored surveyors' tape. If the area is not forested, surveyors' flags should be used, and they should be placed either on the uphill or the downhill side of the trail. The trail should follow natural contours, avoid sensitive vegetation, maintain a sensible distance from water and cliffs, and be generally well planned. Mistakes during this stage are costly and frustrating.

2) Cut the trail.

In a grass/tundra/prairie environment, sod-like squares of land should be cut out along the trail. The trail should be a uniform width, conforming to the standards of the park, forest, or preserve in which it is located. Pulaskis will prove useful for this stage. If in a densely forested area, some trees may need to be cut down. A corridor must also be cleared, once again dependent upon specifications by the managing agency. Sod squares should not be discarded.

3) Muck.

All organic mud should be removed from the trail (which, if it is in a wet area, will be considerable). Shovels, hoes, and rakes will come in handy here. Organic mud should be disposed of out of site.

4) Crush-fill.

Fist sized rocks, preferable locally quarried (using picks, rock bars, and double jacks or single jacks with appropriate eye protection) should fill up the trail, which has been mucked. Periodic spaces, depending on the level of wetness in the area, should be left for downhill drains (perhaps 10 to 15 feet).

5) Cut uphill drains.

Along the uphill side of the trail, a trench-- six to eight inches wide, generally, though some specs will be more stringent--should be cut in the same manner as the trail. This drain should be mucked and crush-filled as well. Ideally, sod squares should be tabbed-- cut on only three sides-- so that after crush-filling, the squares can cover the drains to speed up recovery of the land.

6) Cut downhill drains.

Periodically, downhill drains-- constructed exactly like uphill drains, except perpendicular to the trail, should be cut.

7) Gravel.

The entire trail should be covered in fine gravel or dirt.

Note: this method is incredibly labor intensive and should only be used in very high volume, very wet areas-- permafrost and swamp especially-- but some of the individual methods are applicable more broadly (i.e. downhill drains; crush-fill).